Full Manual

• LOA: 43.6 ft (13.30 m)
• LOA with bowsprit: 48.3 ft (14.70 m)
• Width: 12.3 ft (3.75 m)
• Height: 14.8 ft (4.50 m)
• Weight, cradle included: 18.00 tons

Editor’s Notice

The facts and figures given in this manual are subject to alterations without prior notice from Siltala Yachts. The manual is constantly being revised, and this edition is accurate only for boats delivered later than April 1984 and before the issue of a new edition. It will, however, be useful also for other boats, as far as practical advice rather than factual accuracy is concerned.

Please study the enclosed Ford owner’s manual thoroughly. In the following, we have assembled the chief facts about maintenance and adjustments, adding our own experiences. We often refer to the manual and recommend you to make yourself familiar with it, especially the
fault-finding chart. It may be very useful to know it well.

As a rule, surveying the engine performance, hatches opened, is a measure worth taking at times. Check for odd noise, fan belt, and possible water or oil leaks.

Also, check the tightness of the battery terminal clamps periodically. Poor contact may pass unnoticed until using the starter motor, which demands a great deal more current than most service circuits. Another reason for failing starting may be falling voltage due to an insufficient water level in the batteries.

In the checking lists of the manual and below, you will find what checks are to be made as regards oils and liquids. However, in general, one cannot check the engine oil, gearbox oil, cooling liquid, and battery water level too often. Evaporation in the batteries is higher in the
summer, or with constant charging.

One important cause of engine trouble is fan belt damage, which happens if the alternator bolts slip and the alternator pulley is out of line. Check, therefore, while the engine is running, that the fan belt runs straight in the groove and that the pulleys are in line.

Remember that proper tools can often be harder to find than qualified craftsmen.

Always keep the following spare parts on board:

• Alternator fan belt

• Seawater pump impeller
• Oil filter
• Fuel filter

On longer trips also:

1. Injection pump nozzle
2. Flexible fuel pipe or one spare fuel pipe with fitted connection pieces
3. One set of engine gaskets (“top overhaul set”)

Special tools:

1. Torque wrench
2. Feeler gauges for adjusting valve clearance
3. Cleaning brush for cables and battery terminal clamps
4. Engine turning bar

IMPORTANT: Study the Ford manual SUMMARY OF REGULAR MAINTENANCE thoroughly, and note especially the “after first … hours” measures!

The sea water pump impeller has to be replaced from time to time due to wear. Unscrew the lid, lift out the impeller by hand, or use a screwdriver to help it out. Install the new impeller and close the lid. The wings must be in the same direction!

THE ENGINE ZINC ANODE CAN BE CHECKED AND CHANGED when the system is drained.

Secondary Circuit: Fresh Water System

The fresh water engine coolant circulates through the water jackets around the cylinder block, cylinder head, exhaust manifold, and through the heat exchanger. The rotary pump, driven by the fan belt, is located at the front of the engine. In the tubular heat exchanger (on the starboard side of the engine), the engine coolant is cooled by the sea water.

A thermostat under the expansion tank (marked “Ford Lehman” at the front end of the engine) controls the engine temperature by regulating the rotary speed of the engine coolant.

The total capacity of the fresh water system is 15 liters (14.1 US quarts). The amount of anti-freeze is 50%. Always use anti-freeze, even in the summer, because it contains substances that prevent corrosion. Fill through the expansion tank twist cap.

Overheating Due to a Clogged Sea Water System

If, for some reason, the sea water stops circulating, it will not appear immediately. The engine coolant does not start boiling at once. However, the rubber exhaust hose will soon get overheated.

If you smell burnt rubber or see black smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe, immediately stop the engine and check the exhaust pipe rubber hose and the water strainer of the sea water pump. The cause may be a plastic bag or built-up weed in the strainer, or the sea water pump rubber impeller may have broken down.

The strainer can easily be cleaned by unscrewing the wing nut on top of the vessel and lifting the strainer out. Do not forget to shut the seacock under the strainer. If leaks have occurred in the hose, they can be temporarily mended with cloth, tape, or silicone. But remember to renew the hose, aided by a qualified person, as soon as possible. This applies also to situations when the hose seems “stiff” and has lost its flexibility due to aging. If there is a leak in the exhaust pipe, dangerous exhaust gas will enter into the cabin.

Engine Zinc Anode (Engines Marinized by Lehman)

To prevent electrolysis and corrosion in the seawater system, the engine has been earthed with a zinc anode, placed in the heat exchanger, fastened with a brass bolt.

Fresh Water Cooling Pump Driven by Fan Belt

Important: The fresh water cooling pump is driven by the fan belt. Thus, the system will boil in case of a fan belt failure.

Sea Water Cooling Pump Connected by Engine Shaft

The sea water pump is driven by a pinion connected to an engine shaft cog wheel and is not affected by a broken fan belt.

Buzzer

A buzzer on the instrument panel warns of overheating in the fresh water cooling system.

The maintenance of the lubricating system is of utmost importance. Good care makes your engine last longer and saves you trouble.

The engine is pressure-lubricated with a camshaft-driven lubricating pump, which feeds oil to the bearings and other lubricating points. The system has a built-in main-flow filter through which the oil passes.

Technical Specification

• Oil class: API D (CD) or range III
• Viscosity: 20 W-20, 20 W-40, or SAE 30
• Examples:
  • Shell Rotella TX 20 W-30
  • Rimula 30
  • Essolube D3-20 W-30
• Oil filter element: FRAM PH8A
• Buzzer: Alarm when the oil pressure danger limit is reached.
• Red warning light: Indicates danger limit.

Oil Pressures

• Hot engine: 3.5 – 4.0 kp/cm² at 1800 RPM
• Danger limit: 1.5 kp/cm² at 1000 RPM

It may occur that the oil pressure rises to about 4.5 kp/cm² when the oil is cold. It may also happen that the pressure drops to 1.5 kp/cm² when the engine is hot and in neutral. However, it will rise again at increased revolutions.

Measures to Be Taken If Something Is Faulty

1. Check the oil level, top up if necessary, and check that no oil is leaking out anywhere.
2. If the gauge does not indicate proper pressure even after taking the above measures:
   • Check if the indicator moves when you switch the power on and off (engine not running).
   • Arrange a short circuit between the wires of the pressure gauge sensor. If the indicator moves, the sensor is faulty.

The indicator doesn’t move if it is faulty itself. The sensor is fitted to the oil pan, port side of the engine.

3. Open the engine oil filling cap. Dry one rocker arm and start the engine. If oil flows through the hole in the rocker arm, you may continue running until the gauge can be checked.

Oil Change

The first oil and filter change is due after the first 15-20 running hours and after that every 200 running hours, or once a season. Before going to sea, and every 10 hours, check the oil level.

The dip-stick is on the port side of the engine, close to the starter motor. The oil level should never be below the “safe” mark. Change the oil of the injection pump once a season and check the oil level at least twice a season (see engine manual).

Oil Filter Change

For instructions on how to change the filter, see Ford Manual, page 21.

During the first 100 hours, the oil level should be checked daily. The oil consumption will diminish after the first 100 running hours.

Make sure that the main switch (located on the steering console) is in position 1 or 2. (Ford manual p.11, fig.2)

Check engine oil, water level, and battery water level.

Check that both throttle-gear remote controls are in neutral. This is important because the starting circuit is equipped with a current restrictor, which is not engaged when either control is in gear. The remote control gear cables are coupled by means of an engine room lever, which controls a common gear cable running to the gearbox. If the common cable is not in neutral, the current restrictor cuts the current.

(The coupling has been done in order to eliminate the risk of running into a pier or a neighbor when starting the engine.)

Pull the remote control out into idle and push it forward into half throttle. (Some controls have an idle knob, which you either push in or pull out.)

Turn the ignition clockwise to position 3 (Ford manual, page 11, Fig 2). The red alarm light goes on and the buzzer gives a signal. Turn the key to spring-loaded position 4 and keep it there until the engine starts. If the engine does not “fire” in 15-20 seconds, turn the key back to position 2, wait 2 minutes, and try again. If the starter motor does not move when you turn the key to position 4, the current restrictor is not in neutral. Moving the remote controls helps. When the engine has started, decrease revolutions.

Immediately after starting, check the following:

• Engine oil pressure (3.5 – 4 kp/cm² = 50-55 lbf/in²)
• Gearbox oil pressure (7.5 kp/cm² = about 105 lbf/in²)
• That the red warning light goes off and the buzzer stops sounding

  (If the warning light does not go off when the engine runs at about 1400 RPM, stop the engine immediately and start looking for the defect.) (Ford manual Fault Finding Chart, p.35)

Stop the engine by pushing the stop button on the wheelhouse switch panel. Never turn off the current (with the starter key).</b

Shaft

• Material: AISI 329 (cont.2324)
• Diameter: 40 mm
• Cone or “taper”: 1:10

Flexible Coupling

• Type: Vetus
• Size: 10

Stern Gland

Bronze stern gland with flexible rubber hose installation.

Greaser

• Grease: Shell Rodina Grease or Unedo 2
• Capacity: about 250 g = 9 oz
• Operation: Turn the handle of the greaser every 10 running hours until the handle feels “hard”.
  A few drops of water may come out when cruising, but it does not harm the lubrication.

Stern Bearing

• Type: BTR Silverline 40 mm x 55 mm x 160 mm
• Water-lubricated rubber bearing

Propeller

3-blade left-hand bronze propeller

Propeller Specifications

• Diameter: 23″
• Pitch: 18″
• Cone: 1:10
• Key: 10 x 10 x 50
• Length of cone: 125 mm
• Rotary direction: Left

CAUTION!

The water-lubricated rubber bearing will be damaged if the propeller shaft is rotated out of the water!

When you move the lever, you can feel three positions: Upright is neutral, forward is forward, and backward is reverse. There is a 10° sector where the lever does not affect engine revolutions. In this position, the engine is on idle, about 700 RPM.

Idle Position

The gear is released by pulling the lever to the right and then moving it to the ahead position. The spring load will automatically engage the gear again in the neutral position.

Engine Stop

The engine of a NAUTICAT has an electric stop. The push button on the switch panel energizes a solenoid, which is fitted to the injection pump fuel valve. Reduce revolutions to idle for a few minutes and stop the engine by pressing the button.

Technical Specification

• Throttle and gear lever (wheelhouse): Teleflex A5 or Morse MT
• Cables: Teleflex 401
• Throttle and gear lever (aft deck): Morse MT
• Cables: Teleflex 401
• Engine room lever: Volvo 828164
• Cables: Teleflex 401

Spanners for releasing the steering cylinder from the rudder: 2 Off 24mm = 0.94 in

Coupled Remote Controls

The remote controls are coupled by means of the engine room lever. Refer to chapter 3.1.5 Starting for details.

How to Remove Air from Steering System

To remove air from the hydraulic steering system, you need a funnel connected to a 30-50 cm piece of transparent plastic hose. Apply the hose to the oil filling gap next to the mizzen foot. Fill normal transmission oil through the funnel and turn the outside steering to and fro. As the oil slowly enters, the air will come out as bubbles. Keep turning the helm until no more air comes out. Then squeeze the hose by the root and remove it. Recap the filling cap.

Mind! This is a slow procedure that takes time!

The alternator is fitted on the port side of the engine (MOTOROLA 14V/70A). It has a built-in voltage regulator. The charging power is divided to the batteries according to their respective charging levels. Both batteries are always being charged, no matter which position the switch is in. The charging passes through a blocking diode system. If the charging stops, a red light on the switch panel will alarm.

If the voltage in either battery gets very low, thus preventing starting, switch over to the other one and try again. If necessary, switch on both batteries. Then let the engine run at 1250 RPM for about 15 – 20 minutes to let the batteries charge. In normal duty, keep the battery select switch on position 2.

As a rule, use battery No. 1 for the starter motor, and battery No. 2 for other duty. Switch over from 1 to 2 when berthed. This will ensure you one full battery for the next start. Never trust battery 2 to be full, for it supplies the automatic bilge pump directly, and possible extra equipment.

The batteries are a key factor to comfort on board – lights, water, heat, ventilation, etc. – and for the functioning of the engine. Therefore, monitor them often. Good care can make them last a good five years, whereas they will wear out in a couple of years if used carelessly.

Battery Charger (On Shore Power, 110 or 220 V)

As an option, a battery charger is installed on board. The system includes a deck socket, a fuse box, and a charger (20 – 60A / 12V).

The charger regulates the power automatically according to what is required. If the main switch is in position 1, it does not charge. In position 2, it will charge battery 2 and extra battery. To charge battery 1 as well, turn the main switch to position “both.” The charger goes on automatically when charging is required.

Each circuit is equipped with a 10 A (if not otherwise indicated) automatic thermal breaker switch. In case of a short circuit, the switch will disconnect. Once the short circuit is eliminated, re-connect the switch.

Circuits

1. LIGHTS 1
   • DIMMER UNIT
2. LIGHTS 2
3. LIGHTS 3
4. LIGHTS 4
5. OUTLETS
   • HORN
6. REFRIGERATOR
7. INSTRUMENTS
   • WATER GAUGE
   • LOG
8. NAVIGATOR
9. SHOWER
   • PUMP
10. VHF
11. PLEASURE ELECTRONICS
12. RADAR
13. AUTOPILOT DRIVE
14. AUTOPILOT CONTROL
15. ANCHOR WINCH & BOW THRUSTER CONTROL
16. SPARE
17. COOLING UNIT
18. SEA WATER PUMP
19. FRESH WATER PUMP
20. NAVIGATION INSTRUMENTS
21. ENGINE ROOM BLOWER
22. ENGINE ROOM LIGHTS
23. COMPASS LIGHT
24. COMPASS
25. DECK LIGHTS
26. ANCHOR LIGHT
27. STEAMING LIGHT
28. NAVIGATION LIGHTS
29. WIPER STBD
30. WIPER CENTRE
31. WIPER CENTRE
32. WIPER PORT

ZINC ANODES drawing: zinc anode plan

The electric system and the engine and fuel tanks are earthed through the zinc anode, located on the exterior hull, next to the propeller. This device discharges the static electricity of the boat, thus preventing electrolysis from taking place on the propeller shaft and other underwater metal parts.

If the zinc anode wears out, the discharge will take place through the other metal parts, causing electrolysis and consequently, corrosion. One season with an insufficient zinc anode will ruin the underwater metal parts. Therefore, change the anode when the boat is hauled up for the winter, and also check the anode bonding cables, which have been run inside the hull.

Renew Anode:

Change the hull zinc preferably once a season. Our authorized agent will get spare zincs for you or you can have new ones made fitting the old measurements.

The engine manufacturer recommends a weekly check of the engine “pencil zinc” anode (c.f. Lehman Operator’s Manual). We refer to the manual for engine zinc change. The zinc is located on the heat exchanger.

Bilge Pump

A standard boat is equipped with an electric centrifugal bilge pump with a capacity of about 40 litres (9 gallons) a minute. The pump works either manually or automatically, controlled by means of a “man/autom” switch on the switch panel. The manual position is spring-loaded and will cut off the current as soon as you stop pressing the switch. In the automatic position, the pump goes on and off depending on the position of a float switch in the bilge.

The red warning light in the switch goes on when the pump starts working and goes off as soon as the bilge is empty. In the mid-position, the pump is switched off altogether.

Bilge Pump Check

Since the pump works very quietly, it should be checked from time to time as follows: (two persons are required)

• Turn the switch on “man.” The red light should go on.
• If the red light does not go on, the fuse is tripped and has to be changed. Remember that the bilge pump is connected directly to battery No. 2 and has a fuse of its own located in the steering console.
• The automatic float switch normally turns off the pump when there is still some water left, and this water should now be expelled if the pump is in order. Check at the scupper on the starboard top side, beneath the handrail gate.
• If there is water coming out for more than some 5-10 seconds, there may be something wrong with the pump or the switch. Check that there’s nothing blocking the float switch. If not, the automatic function has been damaged and has to be repaired by a craftsman.

A manual membrane pump, capacity 30 litres (6.6 GB, 7.8 US gallons), can be fitted, normally on the aft bulkhead of the engine room – or under the aft companionway steps – and led to an outlet beside the automatic pump skin fitting.

* = through hull fitting

The wheelhouse has been designed to function as the center of all maneuvering and navigation, with the exception of sheet and rig handling. Thus, the helmsman has easy access to and control over the wheel and throttle, gear lever, gauges, compass, switch panel, echo-sounder and sumlog dials, chart-table with lamp, and optional autopilot panel, VHF-radio, electric compass dial, etc.

The following items are accessible in the steering console:

• Electric system main switch
• Electric system main fuse
• Electric system voltage regulator
• Battery alternator diodes
• Battery charging fuse
• Bilge pump fuse
• Wheel transmission adjustment (only for craftsmen)
• Optional auto-pilot motor
• Optional fuel emergency shut-off cocks

The air-heating unit is located under the portside-deck, accessible from the wheelhouse.

In the engine-room, beneath the wheelhouse you will find, besides the engine and powering equipment:

• 2 batteries; 12 V 145 Ah and optional extra battery
• The fresh water pump (in NC 33)
• 2 fuel tanks
• The optional sea water pump (in NC 33)
• The optional Raritan water heater

The gauge panel beneath the ceiling includes:

• 2 fuel gauges, one for each tank
• Gear-box oil pressure
• Engine oil pressure
• Temperature of cooling system
• Engine revolutions
• Battery charge current (Amperes)
• Battery voltage
• Engine running hours (cumulative)

One thing to remember when working at the chart table, especially when navigating with the compass, is never to place anything which might attract the compass too near it, e.g., any iron and steel objects, transistor receivers, tape-recorders, etc. It should be obvious that no loudspeakers, extra lights, or other magnet-attracting gear should be installed where it might influence the compass.

Buzzer

On the instrument panel, a buzzer alarms for danger limit in engine oil pressure and fresh water cooling system.

Alarm Light

Alarm lights for charging, engine oil pressure, and fresh water cooling system are also on the panel.

The switch of the automatic bilge pump is on the switch panel.

Wheelhouse Door Keys

The locks of the wheelhouse doors are identical. Two keys are delivered, marked with the serial number of the locks. In case you should need spare keys, use the serial number for copying.

Do not slam the doors with force. They close easily if only unlocked and lubricated. Slamming will damage the locks.

It may occur that the buzzer starts sounding when the yacht heels strongly, due to the movements of the oil in the oil pan. This may not be dangerous at all, but if the buzzer doesn’t stop sounding when the heeling has stopped, the oil pressure is lacking.

Fresh Water Tank

The tank, made out of polyethene plastic and taking 250 litres (55 GB, 65 US gallons), is situated under the saloon floor, accessible through hatches.

Clean the tank and check the water level through the twist cap on the tank.

The tank filler is on deck, on the port side, marked “Water.” When filling, check the air vent on the starboard topside. As soon as there is water coming out of the vent, stop the filling.

Do not push the water hose down the filling pipe. This causes back pressure in the tank, and the saloon floor may even lift slightly. Release the tank pressure by opening a fresh water tap and letting excessive water run out until the floor has settled back.

Additional Water Tank

An additional 100-litre (22 GB, 26 US gallons) polyethene water tank can be fitted in the bow under the forward cabin berths. This tank has its own filler on deck, port side, marked “Water.” The tank can be cleaned by opening the cap, like the main tank.

You can select either tank by means of a 3-way cock under the saloon steps. The positions of the cock are marked FWD (additional tank) and Main (main tank).

Due to possible remains of the manufacturing process, a new tank may give a certain taste to the drinking water. We flush the tanks before installation, but in the beginning, we advise you to use much water for washing and cleaning up, etc., to get frequent refilling and to get rid of the taste.

CAUTION: Get the air out!

When filling the tanks, always expel possible air from the system, especially the warm water branch, by opening the service taps and letting the air out until the water starts running.

X in yachts built in the spring 1983 and later: 450 l.

The water pressure system is operated by a belt-driven, automatic diaphragm pump, controlled by a built-in pressure switch which turns the pump on when the pressure is lower than 1.5 kPa/cm² and off at 2.2 kPa/cm².

If the pressure of the water system fails, when the “fresh water” knob on the control panel is pulled out, it is possibly due to the pressure switch. A light tap on the red or black switch housing may help, but if not, the switch has to be replaced.

Pipes and Hoses

Filling, vent, and water pipes are made of PVC plastics. The tightness of the hose clamps at joints and fittings should be checked regularly. Leaks can be noticed if the pressure pump runs 1-2 seconds after intervals even when water is not used.

Warm Water Systems

Junkers Gas Operated Water Heater (Type W 125)

• Check that the “fresh water” switch is on.
• Open the gas valve on the gas bottle.
• Check that the gas valve under the sink is open.
• Turn the water control counterclockwise to expel possible air.
• Push the flame regulator to the “two-flame” slot and push it for 20-30 seconds.
• Push the right-hand firing knob in until the pilot light is lit. Keep the knob in for 10 seconds.
• Once the pilot light is on, push the flame regulator all the way to the right.

Caution: If the air is not properly expelled from the fresh water system, it may overheat the heater and possibly start a fire. Always ensure proper water pressure.

Raritan Water Heater

The NAUTICAT may be equipped with an optional Raritan water heater, an insulated 25-liter container that uses engine-cooled water for heating. The temperature is controlled by a thermostat, and the heater requires no operation after installation.

Hand Shower & Salt Water Pump

Hand Shower

An optional hand shower can be fitted in the forward or aft toilet. It has a 1.4-meter hose and a switch on the handle to toggle water flow from the faucet to the shower. The water runs through a hose to the bilge pump for disposal.

Salt Water Pump

A salt water pressure system, mechanical or electrical, can be installed as an option. The pump starts and stops automatically in the same way as the fresh water system. The outlets can be chosen for the galley, forward deck, and aft deck.

Water Gauge

The optional water gauge is fitted in one of the lockers of the galley. It works only when the ignition key is turned on.

IMPORTANT

If the boat is fitted with a septic tank (made out of acidproof steel) there is a 3-way cock next to the bowl, which selects emptying either into the tank or the sea. The tank is large enough for about 20 operations.

When on the open sea the tank can be emptied with a mechanical pump after the seacock under the tank has been opened. Rinse the tank after each emptying by pumping it full and emptying it a couple of times. This will lessen the risk of clogging very much.

If you want to eliminate vapours due to gas expansion in the tank, we recommend Natriumhypochlorite (NaClO), which will also dissolve the toilet paper to a certain extent, and lessen the risk of clogging. Consult your pharmacist, who will supply you with the substance and instructions for how much to use.

Do not add it into an empty tank!

We do not recommend the chemicals intended for caravan toilets, since they strongly contribute to pollution of the sea. The NaClO will react in the tank and turn into table salt.

After use at sea, empty the bowl completely by pumping a few strokes the lid open, in order to prevent splashing due to the movements of the boat.

The gas system of a standard boat comprises the following parts:

• 1. Gas bottle storage on aft deck, containing a gas bottle with a shut-off valve and flexible hose connected to the gas piping. The gas bottle storage is ventilated through the topside.
• 2. The gas piping is made of 10/12 mm copper, running unbroken from the stern to the closet under the sink, where a separate shut off valve is fitted. The optional Junkers water heater has its own shut off valve on the right hand side of the closet. The flexible hoses shall be renewed according to national rules.
• 3. Stove: The UFO-Nautiwall stoves have automatic failsafe valves fitted. The flame guard prevents the gas from flowing if the flame has gone out. When lighting a flame, push the respective knob for about 10 seconds to release the flame guard, and hold a match to the front hole in the middle of the base plate.

IMPORTANT

To prevent accidental gas leaks, always shut off the gas valves under the sink, and for optimal safety, the main valve at the gas bottle. But remember, that the risk of gas leaks and consequent gas accumulation on the floor and in the bilge can never be altogether eliminated, wherefore caution is required. Remember that gas on the floor does not smell at the level of one’s head.

Always check, when taking the boat into use after delivery or winter storage, that the rubber hose between the gas piping and the gas stove is fastened in both ends. If you hear gas rushing or wheezing out when you open the gas tap of the stove (or other gas operated devices), close the tap immediately, for there is obviously a leak. Locate the leak with the assistance of a craftsman.

A NAUTICAT motorsailer has two steering stations with remote controls to permit steering outside as well as inside. One thing to remember about the remote control is always to return the lever into neutral when changing from one steering point to another. If one remote control is engaged, the other one won’t work. This may lead to very serious complications e.g. in case one should need to stop the boat abruptly.

The turning radius of a NAUTICAT is very tight at low speeds, particularly when turning to port. The propeller rotates counter-clockwise, viewed from astern, causing the stern to slip to starboard. Turn the wheel hard to port and run the engine at 1500 revs forward and reverse alternatively. The boat will turn about 90° to port at each phase. Try this at sea. Also try turning to starboard, and note the difference. A life buoy in the water can serve as a comparison mark.

A NAUTICAT has a heavy displacement, wherefore caution must be observed when berthing. Make it a rule always to have all the fenders out and all the mooring lines ready when docking or coming alongside.

You will notice that the stern “draws” to starboard also when reversing.

When setting off, make it a habit to try the gears at a low speed. Switch over to FWD and reverse and note a slight jerk when the gear is engaged. Do this while the mooring lines are still attached. Always use minimal speeds in port!

The safest and easiest way of berthing is wind on the bow and pier on starboard. Thus you take advantage of the slip-effect of the stern. Approach the pier in a 50° angle, at a speed not higher than what is required for manoeuvrability. When the bow is about two yards from the pier, turn the wheel to its port extreme, and when the bow is about to touch the pier, put in the reverse. Now the bow will move further off the pier and the stern closer, thus bringing the craft alongside.

Aided by the coefficients one can use the distance recorder and the log pretty safely. Unless having made up this table, do not trust the accuracy of these instruments. Try, if possible, to use one and the same measured distance, and remember that the longer the distance and the more carefully you measure it on the chart, the more accurate the results.

The log speed reading coefficient is not very important, but the distance recorder reading coefficient must be accurate to give safer navigation. Incorrect distance calculation in conditions of poor visibility may be disastrous. Therefore, check the recording with the actual distance as often as possible. If the recording bias grows, it is probably due to dirt in the impeller.

The log impeller, which also gives impulses to the distance recorder, should be checked at every possible occasion. Clean the sumlog impeller when swimming and diving around the boat. The impeller of an electronic log can be cleaned from inside the boat.

Navigation

It is not our intention to give you a lesson in navigation here, but we remind you that keeping your log coefficient table and compass deviation table up to date will make cruising safer and more enjoyable.

Manual stop

Should the stop-button on the switch panel not work, the engine can be stopped by moving the stop lever of the injection pump, the current being switched off. (Ford man. p.28, fig.17. Stop lever beneath filler plug)

The main engine has a green button, which you pull the forefinger to the desired side, the engine will be slowly, and if you want to stop without the engine to be applied more resistance will give the engine completely shut off. The motor pressurized, turning to automatic stop
control system manual stop until crank at end stop, the stop knob.

All signals, a difficult pulling the pipes back inserted lower stop ahead remove.

When running downwind, attach the kicking strap to the cap shroud, to avoid the risk of unintentional gybing, i.e. when the boom slams over from one side to the other. This may carry away your entire rig, if the wind is strong enough. When running, try to sail “butterfly” i.e. “wing and wing”, or to use a spinnaker.

Hydraulic steering

All NAUTICATs built after 1981 have a hydraulic steering system, which means that the helmsman doesn’t “feel” whether the yacht tends to steer upwind or downwind. He may be steering to starboard or port while she goes straight forward. In this case the rudder “brakes” the speed. The ideal is to obtain a balance in the sails which will move the boat straight forward when the rudder is straight. Therefore, a rudder angle indicator is a good option, if you want to sail better.

Balance the sails to get more speed

As a general rule all sails forward of the main mast make the yacht turn downwind and all the sails aft of it make her turn upwind. The mizzen, in particular, makes the yacht turn upwind, and the bowsprit genoa does the opposite. Normally trim the main and genoa before the mizzen. The schooner mainsail has to be used with a good “counterpoise” in the fore mast. It is also obvious that it has to be reefed fairly often, but with a good slab reefing this is a quick operation and will give you better possibilities for adjusting the sail.

When sailing to windward, the wind, lying on the high free-board and cabin of a NAUTICAT produces a certain leeway. If the sails are properly sheeted she, however, cruises nicely, especially in fresher winds. Do not attempt to “pinch” too much upwind, you will only loose speed and get more leeway. Try to find an optimum where the speed, course and leeway bring you fastest to your goal. When the yacht heels more than about 15° it is time to reef. Excessive heeling angles also produce more leeway and less speed.

When hoisting, blanket the spin with the genoa. Hang the spin pole on its hook, fasten lift and downhaul, and pull them tight, adjusting the pole into horizontal. The spin pole should be on the windward side of all the forestays, i.e. the opposite side in relation to the main boom. Fasten the spin bag to a stanchion under the genoa. Fasten the sheets well to the spin corners (clews), and pull the windward sheet (the “guy”) through the hook in the fore end of the spin pole. Pull the guy outside all stays and shrouds to the windward winch, outside the shrouds. Attach the sheets to their clews by the winches. Fasten the spin halyard to the head of the spin, seeing that the halyard runs freely outside the genoa (on its leeward side).

Now you can hoist the spinnaker. Do it with two turns around the halyard winch, steadily, without interruptions, as fast as possible. Try not to make the sail catch air before it’s fully hoisted, i.e. stretch the sheets only moderately until the sail is all the way up. Fasten the halyard carefully to its clew.

As soon as it is up, the sail may fill with a slight bang, or start to flutter. Slacken the leeward sheet and tighten the guy until the sail fills. Go on slackening the leeward sheet and tightening the guy until the luff curls slightly. Then slacken the guy just a little. Now the spin pole should be adjusted again.

Hoisting the spinnaker

When hoisting, blanket the spin with the genoa. Hang the spin pole on its hook, fasten lift and downhaul, and pull them tight, adjusting the pole into horizontal. The spin pole should be on the windward side of all the forestays, i.e. the opposite side in relation to the main boom. Fasten the spin bag to a stanchion under the genoa. Fasten the sheets well to the spin corners (clews), and pull the windward sheet (i.e. the “guy”) through the hook in the fore end of the spin pole. Pull the guy outside and always to the windward and wind, outside the shrouds. Attach the sheets to their clews by the winches. Fasten the spin halyard to the head of the spin, seeing that the halyard runs freely outside the genoa (on its leeward side).

Now you can hoist the spinnaker. Do it with two turns around the halyard winch, steadily, without interruption, as fast as possible. Try not to make the sail catch air before it’s fully hoisted, i.e. stretch the sheets only moderately until the sail is all the way up. Fasten the halyard carefully to its clew.

As soon as it is up, the sail may fill with a slight bang, or start to flutter. Slacken the leeward sheet and tighten the guy until the sail fills. Go on slackening the leeward sheet and tightening the guy until the luff curls slightly. Then slacken the guy just a little. Now the spin pole should be tightened.

Twisted spinnaker

If the spin gets twisted when you hoist it, try to untwist it with slight jerks at the leech. If this doesn’t work, lower the sail, untwist it, and try again. Make it a habit to try to avoid twisting it when bagging, and to check that it is OK before hoisting, by running down the edges with your fingers. BEWARE NOT TO GET THE SPIN INTO THE WATER.

Lowering the spinnaker

Hoist the genoa or furl it out, to blanket the spin. Check that the spin halyard can run freely through the mast. Turn slightly to the wind, while slackening the guy and tightening the leeward sheet. Release the guy from the sail, which will fly out to leeward. Gather the foot of the sail to the wheelhouse door. Lower the sail while the person who gathers the sail into the wheelhouse tells the person at the halyard how fast to let go. (If you let go too fast, the sail will drop overboard). Adjust the genoa. Undo the spin halyard and fasten it to the spin ring on the mast. Undo the spin pole.

Bagging the spinnaker

Run down both edge tapes with your fingers to make sure the sail isn’t twisted, and stow it beginning from the belly, loosely, without folding. Leave the clews (spin corners) and head on top, and pull a line through the eyelets. The spin will be ready for instant use again, if stowed like this.

Gybing

When running downwind, and changing course slightly, the sails may seem to be on the “wrong” side. You can switch them over, “gybe” them, by tightening the sheets, so that the sail is stretched midships, and gently letting the wind in from the other side. Then slacken the sheets. Avoid gybing in fresher winds, for the bang may damage your rig. Gybing a spinnaker of the NAUTICAT size takes experience, and we advise you not to try without having someone experienced on board.

Staysails

The mizzen staysail and the schooner fisherman staysail can be used when having the wind from the same side for a longer period. Particularly, the fisherman will give the schooner considerably more speed, making up for the lacking spinnaker possibility.

Propeller shaft lock

You will notice that when the boat speed exceeds two knots under sail, the propeller and propeller shaft start turning. If the noise disturbs you, you can install a shaft lock. This will, however, “brake” the speed a little.

When advancing swiftly under sail, and the propeller shaft is turning, run the engine for about 10 minutes every 4-5 hours to cool down the gearbox oil. The hydraulic pump, as well as the sea water pump are driven by the engine shaft, wherefore the engine must run (on idle or forward), to make the sea water pass through the gearbox oil cooler and to make the oil pass from cooler to bearings.

The rig can be adjusted into various mast angles and mast bends, according to the characteristics of the sail. We gave you some basic advice as to sail trimming in the sailing chapter, but in order not to make these pages swell out too much, we kindly ask you to consult a suitable guide book (eg. Selden) for more details in mast trimming. Good trimming needs a bit of initiation, but in return it may raise sailing performance considerably.

Always make sure that no bottle screws are uncovered, and make it a habit to have spare cotters at hand. Bottle screws which have uncrowed have caused many mast failures. Always cotter at once after adjusting.

The gelcoat used on NAUTICATs will not fade in the sun or by age. However, to achieve maximum durability, the hull needs maintenance.

Make sure that there is no sand, or other abrasive substance on the hull, by gently brushing it off with a dry cloth. Then clean with warm water and detergent, using either a sponge or a soft brush.

WARNING: All detergents containing corrosive substances such as ammonia or chlorine are strictly prohibited on GRP surfaces. After cleaning, all the detergent must be rinsed off. All wooden parts possibly splashed on with detergents should be specially rinsed and dried.

Polishing

When cleaned, the boat should be polished with car or boat wax. Liquid polish is easy to use, but does not protect as well as solid polish. Detergent/polish combinations do not give a long lasting gloss. Polish the hull twice a season, or more often.

Mending scratches

The thickness of the gelcoat is about 6mm (0.02 in). If the hull gets scratches or stains, level them out, if coarse, with wet emery paper (first 250, then 1000), and finish them off with rubbing compound, e.g. Farecla 1 or 7. If the marks are very small there is no need for the emery paper. Rub the compound with an absolutely clean cloth. Repeat 3-4 times. The area will only look half glossy, but the marks will fade away. To get a full gloss, apply 2-3 coats of wax polish.

Scratches through the entire gelcoat must be patched with gelcoat as soon as possible. A two-pound can of gelcoat in the hull colour is delivered with each NAUTICAT. Gelcoat work takes experience, and should be done by skilled craftsmen.

The delivered gelcoat takes 2% hardener, (e.g. meck peroxide).

HAULING OUT

The yacht can be hauled either with a cradle on tracks, or by lifting with a crane. If using a crane, observe the same cautions as when launching (drawing “docking plan and cradle”). When applying the slings, make sure they won’t rest on the propeller shaft.

CRADLE

Preferably store your NAUTICAT in her own cradle. If not possible, try to store her resting on her keel and horizontally. Her centre of gravity is at about the engine fore end, but don’t trust yourself to have found it. Remember to be extremely cautious when supporting her from the sides. A knocked over yacht of the NAUTICAT size may cause very serious damage to surrounding objects and people, and at least suffer certain hull damage herself.

MACHINERY

Before hauling your NAUTICAT, fill the fuel tanks brimful, in order to avoid condense water forming in them during the winter storage. The table below gives the most important service measures to be undertaken when the yacht is laid up for the winter. We refer to the corresponding chapters for more details:

• change the engine oil (ch.3.1.3, Ford manual p.20)
• change the oil filter (Ford manual p.21)
• change the fuel filter (Ford man p.31)
• check the fresh cooling water level, and make sure it contains a 50% proportion of anti-freeze.
• drain the sea water cooling system and change the zinc anodes (ch.3.1.1 and 4.7)
• protect all the electric equipment with CRC or similar substance

During the winter storage, turn the engine shaft a little with a spanner on 2-3 occasions, to avoid having the pistons resting on the same place in the cylinders, thus possibly leaving marks. Or feed some engine oil into the cylinders by the air intake. (SAE 10) This requires the presence of a competent person.